想像を覆す!2022年秋冬の新しい生地のお話Wonderful latest textile! for Koromo's '22A/W collections 2022.08.07
始まりは数年前…、京都を離れ、衣主が訪れた先で偶然に見かけたディスプレイがあった。
そこに飾られていた作品は少し抽象的な表現のもので、ひと目ではそれが何なのか瞬時に理解することができなかった。
だけど、理解をするというよりも本能なのか、衣主にはそれが舞い上がる鳳凰に見えたと言う。
そして帰路につく中、その後数日間も、その情景が目に焼きついて離れない日が続いたそう。
寝ても覚めてもかすれる事もなく、いつまで経ってもずっと焼き付いた情景。
そんな日が続くと、次第にこれはその情景を作品にすべく、必然と出逢った出来事だと考えるようになった。
ただ、この情景は描くだけなら比較的、端的に表現ができるのだが、描くのではなく、織りで表現したいと、なぜかそう思っている自分がいる。
となれば話は早い、そんな特殊な織り表現のできる職人は日本中探していったい何人いるだろうか。
思い当たる職人は1人だけ、常人とは隔する変わり者でとして評判のあの人。播州織の職人だ。
衣の作品としてここ数年、シーズンごと、誰も見たことのないような作品作りに欠かせぬあの職人。
お店では耳にされたこともあるかたもおられると思います。
そして、思い立ったが吉日。すぐさまに話をし、想いをぶつけると、変わり者の職人は少しはにかんだ。
「それを作れないと思ってる?」とでも言うかのように。
職人の心に火をつけた瞬間だ。
さらに衣主が訪ねる。
表現したいものを織ってもらうには、どんな図案を用意すればいいか。
その答えも実に風変わり…、「ただのペンで普通に描いたもので良い」。
西陣織をはじめとする、「織りで柄を作り出すもの」=「細部まで繊細に描いた図案が必要」という概念を覆すものだった。
そうして試織りを重ね、ようやく届いたものはさすが、見事にその表現ができていたのでした。
ただし、服として使うには難クセの強さが目立っていたりと、改善すべき要素もあり、職人とのやり取りは幾重も続いたのだとか。
The moment is a few years ago at …,
When our designer went to Tokyo for buisiness trip and happened to see a exhbition at the place.
The work on display was a bit abstract, and she couldn’t immediately understand what it was.
However, it is said that it looked like a flying phoenix to our designer, which might be an instinct
rather than an understanding.
On the way back home, the scene caught her eyes for several days.
It is a scene that never gets blurred when you sleep or wake up, and is burned.
As these days continued, I gradually came to think that this was an event that met with necessity
in order to make the scene into our KOROMO’s work.
For some reason, she feel that she should express this scene not by drawing but by “weaving textile”,
although we can express it relatively simply by drawing.
If so, how many craftsmen in Japan are able to express such special textile?
There is only one craftsman we can think of, and he is reputed to be an eccentric person who is different from ordinary people. He is a craftsman of Banshu textile.
For the past few years, every season as a work of clothing, the craftsman who is indispensable for making works that no one has seen before.
we think some of you have heard of him at the store.
Then, it was a good day. He spoke at once, and spoke his mind, and the eccentric workman was a little shy.
as if to say, “You think you can’t make that, don’t you?”.
It was the moment that the spirit of the craftsman was ignited.
Our designer visits further.
What kind of design should I prepare for the weaving of what I want to express?
The answer is quite bizarre: … “Just a pen drawing ”.
It overturned the concept of “weaving to create a pattern,” including Nishijin brocade, which requires detailed designs.
Then I repeated the trial weaving, and the thing that finally arrived was, as expected, perfectly expressed.
However, there were some factors that needed to be improved, such as the fact that it was difficult to use as clothes,
and the interaction with the craftsman continued many times.
This is the story of the beginning of a new textile made for 2022 AW collections.
Stay tuned for more on … at a later information.